The Marseille Edit 🇫🇷
The specific joy of Marseille is how rough around the edges it is – it’s not yet as cleaned up as other Riviera hotspots like Nice, where tourist traps are on every corner ready to charge you 18€ for mediocre rosé.
Nope – Marseille still feels unique, raw, and hyper-local, with an exciting regional cuisine that you can’t get anywhere else. It has that delicious grit you’d want from corners of Brooklyn or East London that aren’t fully sanitized, while still feeling uniquely French.
Perhaps a bit like Pigalle or Belleville in Paris, in Marseille the hottest restos & wine bars might be covered in graffiti and right next to a North African grocer – a place where cultures collide in the best way, and nothing feels too posh or insincere.
Here are the hotspots I point friends to when they ask.
x Nicoletta in Europe 🍋
Where to Eat
Tuba Club
This has all my favorite things packed into one – a seafront location, a killer wine list, swimming, and excellent seafood. And when I say “seafront” I mean it; here there are tables literally perched atop rocks so close to the sea you can feel the mist on your face. Note that this is a pricey hotel, but you can still dine as a non-guest – and while the food isn’t the cheapest it is delicious (as opposed to a place where you’re really just paying for the view…) It’s a bit out of the city center but worth the trek. Probably one of the most unique experiences you can get in Marseille – and definitely one of the trendy spots to name drop to those in the know.
limmat
From the moment you see the graffiti’d low profile exterior and buzzy crowd spilling over the steps, you’ll know you’ve discovered a very cool underground spot. Known for its inventive menu of seafood & vegetable-forward small plates, its offerings change often with the seasons and there’s an incredible wine menu to boot. This place, to me, captures Marseille’s vibe perhaps better than any other on my list – unpretentious, unique, and full of bold flavors.
Poissonerie Kennedy
For seafood lovers, this is a MUST. Expect ultra fresh catch-of-the-days with dishes like crudo, crevettes, mussels, and grilled fish. The vibe here is truly Mediterranean with a lovely shaded patio and front terrace seating too. Plus, there’s plenty of natural wine and unique desserts on the menu for the perfect pairing.
À Moro
Maybe you didn’t know you’d need Italian food in Marseille – but if you have more than a few days to sample all the regional French fare, then be sure to put À Moro on your list. With delicacies like vitello tonatto, osso bucco, and delicious pastas – not to mention the terrazzo flooring and retro interior – you’ll truly feel like you’re in an Italian osteria for the night, though flawlessly executed, the French way.
Where to Drink
Ripaille
Both a wine bar and bistro, this place has the cutest vibes in town that feel more like a living room than a restaurant. Yes, the food here is innovative and truly delicious – but even if it wasn’t, I’d belly up here for some of the best natural wines you can find in town & the insanely cozy décor.
Figure
If you’re looking for the cool kid natty wine bar, here it is. You can definitely eat here also, but to me this is the spot for moody low lighting and the incredible wine selection. It’s from the same folks behing Lolo in Paris, and you can certainly feel the Pigalle vibes in this new spot. Think good music, a perfect apéro hour, and even cocktails too.
Le Vin sur la Main
This very tiny, very cool and funky wine bar is the place to go to discover something new. The staff are super knowledgable and ready to make recommendations (you’ll be asked orange, white, red, or rosé? and go from there), and if you happen to snag a seat inside you’ll feel you’re in a true Mediterranean wine cave – though the casual curb-side seating is great, too. Every wine here is natural and local – so it’s a great place to taste the terroir of Provence.
Ivresse
Situated in a former garage, this industrial-chic wine bar is all about a well-curated selection, with lots to sample from Central and Eastern Europe. Their small bites make for the perfect apéro hour, and they consistently welcome great visiting chefs into their kitchen as well. Walk-ins only. They also have a new-ish second location here.
Other Faves
Maison Empereur
This is, without a doubt, one of the BEST shopping experiences you can have—not just in Marseille but in life. You’ll find the obligatory wall of colorful savon de marseille soaps for the ultimate souvenir next to covetable and colorful bistro cutlery, french linens, rustic rolling pins and straw bags and espadrilles in every size, dainty glassware, ornate ceramic jugs—literally everything stunning and French you could ever hope for. This is a Marseille institution that’s been here for ages. JUST GO.
Epicerie L’IDEAL
THE place to visit for gourmet provisions from French mustards to Italian olive oils to homemade harissa – and also a restaurant with rotating small plates. Great spot for a lite lunch, or to pick up takeaway sandwiches & wine for the beach. They even have their own cookbook, which makes an excellent souvenir.
Pétrin Couchette
This is your spot for excellent coffees, simple breakfasts, sandwiches, and delicious baked goods – including surprising delicacies like italian maritozzi. Surely, while you are in Marseille, you will need at least one casual meal (perhaps even one right by the train station?) and this is the place for that – ‘simple’ offerings but with impeccable French quality. Also, if you haven’t had one before, this is a great place to pick up a classic Provençal pompe à l’huile, which is a sweet, olive-oil-based bread.
Ensemble
This gorgeous book shop is absolutely worth a stop – outside of artsy books, it also has posters, magazines, postcards, journals, and very slick merch. This isn’t a comprehensive bookstore with thousands of titles – more of a niche concept store that’s been thoughtfully designed like a fashion boutique or design showroom. If you check their website ahead of time, you might just find that your trip coincides with one of their wonderful art exhibitions, film screenings, talks, or other events.
P.S. If you enjoyed this, there’s SO much more coming… Make sure you subscribe to get all of my future city guides, etc.
x Nicoletta in Europe 🍋